Joey's menu is filled with the Sicilian-American standards of years past. Sun-dried tomatoes and arugula have yet to arrive. But the food here with that lusty marinara sauce and abundant use of garlic seems more vibrant than dated. The chicken cacciatore ($17.95) is prepared with bell peppers, white mushrooms and onions, and bathed in marinara sauce spiked with wine. Veal Tanino ($19.95) is a chef's specialty; medallions of pounded meat with a very European hint of texture, not designed to melt in your mouth. The preparation is simple with mushrooms and onion in a white wine sauce. Though gnocchi ($13.95) are more associated with northern Italy, they are fine here, light in texture and plentiful in a definitive alfredo sauce. The front bar is a destination in itself with a loyal clientele and a mainly Italian wine list.