Irish pubs have become a worldwide phenomenon. Milwaukee's newest,
Brocach, occupies the former Five and Ten tavern. Aside from the original Cream City brick walls, the interior is unrecognizable. Little expense was spared to install bars on two floors. The menu follows the formula for Irish pubs, though occasionally straying from the norm. This means that shepherd's pie and corned beef are contrasted with Alaskan salmon and Buffalo wings. The corned beef appears as a sandwich with Thousand Island dressing and Swiss cheese, which sounds a lot like a Reuben minus the sauerkraut. The meat and potatoes are lightened up with salads. Among the best is the orange and fennel with assorted leaf lettuces, a bit of red onion, garbanzo beans and an aged sherry vinaigrette. "Irish Specialties" include an occasional twist. Bangers and mash is a simple dish with a pair of sausages smaller than bratwurst but otherwise similar in color and flavor. The roasted apple and shallot sauce adds flavor and distinction. The Irish stew is true to form with the usual cast of root vegetables: onion, potato, carrot and parsnip cooked to the proper texture. The lamb is an entire shank, which is more flavorful than
ordinary stew meat and also helps to justify the price.