Though the weekday lunch and weekend dinner buffets are above average at this bustling downtown Chinese restaurant, the best way to experience China Gourmet is to order from the menu. It focuses on regional fare but without oddities such as duck feet or steamed beef tendon. For example, the Shanghai spring rolls ($2.50) and steamed chicken dumplings ($5.95) are filled with gently spiced chicken instead of pork. One item that can't be found elsewhere in this area is spicy snail pasta ($6.95). The menu also diverges from typical American-Chinese fare with a few lamb dishes, a good alternative to Mongolian beef.