Las Esmeraldas, a Mexican family restaurant that doesn't serve alcohol, has reopened. The large portions boast authentic flavors at moderate prices. A whole grilled red snapper ($12.75-$13.75) is big enough for two to share. Tacos are excellent-especially the al pastor, which are the best found locally. The menu also rightly proclaims the birria as the "best in town." It's a huge bowl of spicy goat-meat stew. The meat is boneless but fatty-the key to a good broth. A side plate holds chopped onion, cilantro and lime wedges. Another
option is bottled hot sauce, but this stew is just fine without it. Welcome back, Esmeralda!