Michael
Polaski’s Umami Moto is already a familiar dining spot in Brookfield,
where it has gained note for its menu of Asian fusion. A second Umami
Moto opened in downtown Milwaukee this summer, located on Milwaukee
Street in the former Eve. This time Polaski has two additional
partners: Tom Wackman and Omar Shaikh. Shaikh, current owner of
Carnevor and former owner of Sake Tumi, brings considerable experience
to the partnership.
The young and ambitious Dominic Zumpano serves as chef. Though both menus offer sushi and sashimi, Zumpano is more creative with the appetizers and entrees, adding a contemporary edge instead of the typical Asian melange. That said, it is still a very fine sushi bar. The ahi sashimi ($9), comprised of slices of raw Hawaiian tuna, offers quality that is hard to find locally.
Umami is a Japanese term for the source of that savory, elusive fifth taste (the other four are sweet, sour, salty and bitter). Zumpano aims for No. 5, first by employing a delicate curry powder rub on the tuna, and then by serving the tuna over a very un-Japanese red beet puree. Three thin rounds of watermelon float in the puree. Sample one of these with a chopstick—the unexpected combination of beet and watermelon adds up to taste No. 5.
The maki sushis are just as edgy. Leading the pack is the crispy shrimp roll ($11), rolled sushi with a filling of plump shrimp with cashew, coconut, minced seaweed, plum sauce and cream cheese! It’s a very unlikely circle of companions, but it works, even with the intriguing touch of Chinese mustard glaze on the outer surface of the rice.
Try to visit while the heirloom tomato salad ($9) is still
on the menu. It’s pricy as far as a side salad goes, but this is all
about indulgence. Two types of tomatoes comprise this salad. The
first is small, peeled and topped with a custard of olive oil—very
edgy. The larger red tomatoes are full of flavor and need little
assistance, though the creamy blue cheese and fruity olive oil are both
compelling.
Chinese food reappears with a wonton ($9), though
this large version deviates from the norm via its minced veal filling
with the texture of a firm pâté. It is served over pureed parsnips and
complemented by halved wild plums. Odd pairings? It may sound like it,
but the kitchen is in complete control.
With his experience at
Carnevor, Shaikh knows really good beef. For a sampler, try the Kobe
slider ($13). Sliders are what crab cakes were five years ago,
appearing on every trendy menu. Yet none can approach these. Served
with what is called a Buddha bun, it is the size of a Chinese steamed
pork dim sum bun, but the crust is firm. Adornments include tomato
relish and smoked bacon. An overly sweet mustard is served on the side.
The centerpiece is the beef, which is served on the rare side. The
texture is buttery and sensuous, a red meat counterpart to the ahi
tuna.
It is so easy to focus on the small plates, but forge ahead and try the diver scallops ($21). The price sounds high for three scallops, but these are ultra-jumbo. The scallops have a thin topping of tomato jam and a bed of cauliflower puree. The plate looks like an abstract painting with swirls of intense lobster chowder and green hues of that fruity olive oil. A small scoop of lobster salad is prepared with red grapes.
Given its wide variety, this is just an introduction to the menu. Other items for future visits include fluke sashimi and entrees of char-sui short ribs and miso sea bass.
Beverages include martinis (which seem
mandatory on Milwaukee Street) and a somewhat limited wine list, plus a
far more interesting selection of sakes. And there is Japanese beer,
which goes so well with sushi.
The service is polished and
never intrusive. The kitchen proceeds at an even pace, even when there
are tables of large parties. It is a rare event when a restaurant of
this quality opens in Milwaukee. Umami Moto deserves to be ranked with
the very best.
UMAMI MOTO 718 N. Milwaukee St. (414) 727-9333 $$$-$$$$ Credit Cards: All major Handicap Access: Yes
Photo by Tate Bunker
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