Summer
in Wisconsin announces itself with warmer weather,
longer days and the return of farmers’ markets. Shorts and sandals are pulled
out of winter storage so that customers can stroll, pale legs and all, through
outdoor aisles of fresh and locally grown produce.
According to the U.S.
Department of Agriculture, the number of farmers’ markets held in our country
has increased substantially over the last decade. There seems to be a growing
interest in eating healthier foods that are cultivated in a sustainable manner,
and high gas prices and an increased awareness of global warming are spurring
consumers to concern themselves with how far food has to travel to get to their
tables. A trip to the local farmers’ market supports those who are noble enough
to farm land so that the rest of us can eat.
Fondy Farmers’ Market at
2200 W. Fond du Lac Ave. has been a neighborhood mainstay since the ’70s. In
2000, the Fondy Food Center (FFC) was created in response to a comprehensive
study performed by the Hunger Task Force on food security in the most
economically distressed areas of Milwaukee.
“Food security is knowing
where your food is going to come from in a week or a month,” explains Young Kim,
executive director of the FFC. Mainstream grocery stores have left central-city
Milwaukee for the suburbs, where land and capital can
support buildings that are 100,000 to 120,000 square feet in size. There are a
handful of supermarkets left in the central city, but far more prevalent are the
fast-food restaurants and convenience stores that sell a limited selection of
food, most of which lack balanced nutrition and are sold at prices 29% higher
than at larger suburban grocery stores.
Compounding the scarcity of
fresh fruits and vegetables the enduring presence of poverty and the lack of
economic opportunities in the area, thus creating “food insecurity,” or the
inability to obtain and consume affordable food. The Fondy Food Center
recognized that the stands Fondy Farmers’ Market were the perfect outlet for
making fresh food available to the neighborhood and so began running the market
in 2003.
Fondy Farmers’ Market is a producer-only market in that vendors
must grow the products they sell. Most of the 30 farmers that sell their produce
at Fondy are Southeast Asian and cultivate between 4 and 10 acres in areas
between Germantown and Racine. “We work from both ends of the food spectrum,
from the farm to the fork,” Kim says. The FFC’s Grow-Right Program is designed to
strengthen farmer relationships by providing agricultural education and
marketing assistance.
“We also offer cooking and nutrition education
classes that help create a demand for fresh produce at the market. That, in
turn, helps farmers become more profitable,” Kim adds. The food and nutrition
program director at the Fondy Food Center is Lisa Kingery, a registered
dietitian with a master’s degree in nutrition and public health. She runs
nutrition education programs like “Taste the Season,” a cooking demonstration
workshop held on Saturdays at the market that uses simple recipes to introduce
new fruits and vegetables to market customers.
According to a study by
the Fondy Food Center, 79% of the households with children in the agency’s
service area are headed by a single parent. Adolescent girls in the family are
typically responsible for meal and snack preparation and almost all of these
young women prepare uneconomical, unhealthy convenience meals that use highly
processed ingredients. In response, the FFC created the Girls Chef Academy, a
free cooking-based food system and nutrition education program that teaches
middleschool-aged girls how to cook simple one-pot meals with whole foods.
The Fondy Farmers’ Market may look like a typical outdoor market, but
beneath the layers of fruits and vegetables is a sense of community devoted to
the greater good. The market is currently open on Saturdays from 9 a.m. until
noon. On June 14, the market will celebrate the season’s expanded hours with its
first-ever BBQ and Greens Cook-Off.
Located at 2200 W. Fond du Lac
Ave. For more information, visit www.fondymarket.org. From June 14 to Oct.
31, the market is open Saturdays 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sundays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays
and Thursdays 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.; closed Mondays and Fridays.