One Kitchen, Three Cuisines

TheMekong is one of the great rivers of Asia, originating in China and flowing through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam before finally reaching the sea. Bahn Phongsavat and her daughter Sichanh recently opened a cafe of the same name, with a menu that features the cuisines of Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.

Mekong Cafe occupies a space that once housed the Spice Island restaurant, but the interior has been completely renovated. The place now has large windows, a smaller bar and new carpeting. The simple decor features a few scenic paintings of Southeast Asia, sequined embroideries and a carved wooden screen at the entrance, creating a relaxing setting for a delightful meal.

One recent customer asked his dining companion, “What’s good here?” The reply: “Everything.” After making several visits, I would have to agree. Though Phongsavat is a native of Laos, the dishes from Thailand and Vietnam are prepared with equal care. One appetizer that is simply a must is banh xeo ($6.95), Vietnamese crepes of rice flour blended with coconut milk and turmeric (one of the spices that makes Vietnamese food so different from Thai and Chinese). The turmeric contributes a golden hue, the coconut milk a bit of sweetness. The crepes are filled with minced pork and shrimp and then topped with bean sprouts and crushed peanuts. The plate comes with a side of nuoc cham, a sweet dipping sauce with flakes of red pepper that are mostly for show. This sets a high bar for the remainder of the meal.

When dining with a group, consider the sample platter ($10.95), which includes five of the appetizers. There are some fine chicken satay, fresh spring rolls and even triangles of fried tofu for the vegetarians. The crab Rangoon even has noticeable bits of crabmeat. The dipping sauces truly stand out. Nuoc cham makes another appearance, along with a distinctive sweet-andsour sauce and the best Thai peanut sauce I have ever tasted. Yum nua ($5.95), a Thai salad, is listed among the appetizers. Its Lao counterpart, larb ($8.95), is considered an entrée. Both are made with beef (pork and chicken are other options). The perfectly grilled beef has just the right texture. Fork tenderness is not a goal here. The yum nua has small slices of meat with skinned and seeded cucumber, onion and tomato that actually has flavor. The salad comes with a dressing of lime juice and flakes of hot red pepper. It is a tad sweet by Thai standards, but still makes for a fine beef salad. As good as the yum nua is, the larb is even better. The minced meat allows the similar spice flavors to intermingle. Fresh mint is an added element, as is the crunch of toasted rice powder. When traveling in Laos a few years ago, I encountered an excellent larb made with duck meat. It would be a perfect addition to this menu.