The
restaurant is the vision of owners Valerie Keiller and her partner, who
goes by the name of Dante. Dante’s menu is filled with creativity,
including recipes pirated from Louisiana
and the Caribbean. The prices are geared to this South Side location:
All entrees are priced in the teens and there are sandwich- es that
cost even less. While the menu is quite descriptive in terms of
ingredients, consider this to be merely a general guideline. And do not
be in a hurry, as service comes at a slow, leisurely pace. The
complimentary amuse-bouche showcases the kitchen’s spirit. I sampled
chocolate cornbread, which offers a few sweet streaks of chocolate,
nuts and powdered sugar. Sweet flavors will be found in many of the
menu’s items.
The crab cake surprise ($7.95) deserves the
name. Is there any crabmeat? No, but there’s certainly minced smoked
salmon, bacon, pistachios, leek and Gruyere cheese, creating an
interesting contrast of flavors and texture. And, yes, there is the
addition of sweet mango marmalade.
What can this style of cooking possibly be called? “Pirate fusion,” of course.
A
duck and dumplings soup was unavailable when I visited, which left
sausage soup ($3.50) as the only alternative. The low price made the
large bowl that arrived quite unexpected. The soup combines a few
varieties of chopped sausage with bell pepper, tomato, onion and
celery. The dark broth is very salty and needs to be lightened up.
The
seafood is a wise choice among the entrees, although the Angus filet
with mushrooms, shrimp and multiple sauces ($15.95) is excellent.
Down-home catfish ($11.95) includes two filets served over rice in a
sweet concoction called crawfish buttermilk chive cream. Where are the
crawfish? It really doesn’t matter. This is a delicious dish with a
hint of Louisiana
spice. Pecan-encrusted red snapper ($16.95) comes in a generous
serving. The menu describes the cooking process as sweet-blackening,
which means more sweet than spicy and not really blackened at all. Even
more nuts appear with a Creole-influenced béarnaise sauce.
A
curious item is a curry ($14.95) with a trio of meats—pork, lamb and
goat. The menu promises a curry of fresh thyme, allspice, cilantro and chile in the manner of a Jamaican curry, and it’s quite good, if a bit sweet. The allspice announces its presence and the chile
is at a low level. A promised garnish of nuts (stop already!), raisins
and coconut never appeared. It is of no import, though, as enough is
happening in this dish already. The sweet touch does work admirably in
an entrée simply titled chicken & shrimp ($16.95). The sweetness
comes from a peach brandy béarnaise sauce. The boneless pieces of
chicken (mostly dark meat) and shrimp are enhanced with minced
andouille, pecans and celery. The promised water chestnuts are absent,
but again not really missed. This is another fine example of pirate
fusion.
Shiver Me Timbers has enough good moments to make it
worth a visit. At the very least, you can expect to be surprised. The
bar is pleasant with a minimal wine list supplemented by a selection of
17 domestic and imported beers.
SHIVER ME TIMBERS
4177 S. Howell Ave. (414) 769-7777 $$ Credit Cards: MC, VS Smoking: At bar Handicap Access: Yes
Photos by Jessica Kaminski
Smoove D0
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