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Wednesday, April 16,2008

Bring Out the Grog

Pirate fusion cuisine

By Jeff Beutner
Just when every possible format for a restaurant seems to have been invented, another one appears. This time it is called “American pirate fusion,” and the restaurant employing it goes by the name of Shiver Me Timbers. The restaurant and bar fill a large room decorated with 1950s touches and painted in deep hues of blue and purple. The tables and chairs are natural wood with black lacquer, and the décor is an eclectic mix of brica-brac—everything from pewter teapots to the occasional pirate-themed item. Imagine having dinner at a resale shop.

The restaurant is the vision of owners Valerie Keiller and her partner, who goes by the name of Dante. Dante’s menu is filled with creativity, including recipes pirated from Louisiana and the Caribbean. The prices are geared to this South Side location: All entrees are priced in the teens and there are sandwich- es that cost even less. While the menu is quite descriptive in terms of ingredients, consider this to be merely a general guideline. And do not be in a hurry, as service comes at a slow, leisurely pace. The complimentary amuse-bouche showcases the kitchen’s spirit. I sampled chocolate cornbread, which offers a few sweet streaks of chocolate, nuts and powdered sugar. Sweet flavors will be found in many of the menu’s items.

The crab cake surprise ($7.95) deserves the name. Is there any crabmeat? No, but there’s certainly minced smoked salmon, bacon, pistachios, leek and Gruyere cheese, creating an interesting contrast of flavors and texture. And, yes, there is the addition of sweet mango marmalade.

What can this style of cooking possibly be called? “Pirate fusion,” of course.

A duck and dumplings soup was unavailable when I visited, which left sausage soup ($3.50) as the only alternative. The low price made the large bowl that arrived quite unexpected. The soup combines a few varieties of chopped sausage with bell pepper, tomato, onion and celery. The dark broth is very salty and needs to be lightened up.


The seafood is a wise choice among the entrees, although the Angus filet with mushrooms, shrimp and multiple sauces ($15.95) is excellent. Down-home catfish ($11.95) includes two filets served over rice in a sweet concoction called crawfish buttermilk chive cream. Where are the crawfish? It really doesn’t matter. This is a delicious dish with a hint of Louisiana spice. Pecan-encrusted red snapper ($16.95) comes in a generous serving. The menu describes the cooking process as sweet-blackening, which means more sweet than spicy and not really blackened at all. Even more nuts appear with a Creole-influenced béarnaise sauce.

A curious item is a curry ($14.95) with a trio of meats—pork, lamb and goat. The menu promises a curry of fresh thyme, allspice, cilantro and chile in the manner of a Jamaican curry, and it’s quite good, if a bit sweet. The allspice announces its presence and the chile is at a low level. A promised garnish of nuts (stop already!), raisins and coconut never appeared. It is of no import, though, as enough is happening in this dish already. The sweet touch does work admirably in an entrée simply titled chicken & shrimp ($16.95). The sweetness comes from a peach brandy béarnaise sauce. The boneless pieces of chicken (mostly dark meat) and shrimp are enhanced with minced andouille, pecans and celery. The promised water chestnuts are absent, but again not really missed. This is another fine example of pirate fusion.

Shiver Me Timbers has enough good moments to make it worth a visit. At the very least, you can expect to be surprised. The bar is pleasant with a minimal wine list supplemented by a selection of 17 domestic and imported beers.

SHIVER ME TIMBERS
4177 S. Howell Ave. (414) 769-7777 $$ Credit Cards: MC, VS Smoking: At bar Handicap Access: Yes


Photos by Jessica Kaminski

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  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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This place is awful. I mean AWFUL. First of all, it's not pirate-themed. They have a picture of a pirate on the sign outside, and the cook sort of looks like one, but that's it. Aside from those two things, it's just another dirty Bay View bar. And I don't mind dirty Bay View bars--as long as that's what I'm expecting when I walk in. I was expecting something a bit more unique from this place, especially after reading the Shepherd's glowing review, which apparently was written by someone who had been eating prison food for every meal before visiting this hole. I got the sautéd tuna steak, and my wife got the sautéd salmon. They tasted like crap. The tuna was low-quality, slimy, over-cooked and probably a week old. The rice was the consistency of mashed potatoes. And my dish was the better of the two. The bathrooms were filthy. They had no paper towels--only a stack of napkins. Have you ever tried to dry your wet hands with a napkin? It crumbles into little spit balls. Also, the night we were there, the phone lines were down, so they couldn't accept credit cards. Cash only. OK, phone lines go down. It happens. But they didn't tell us this until AFTER they brought the bill. Luckily, we had cash. But what if we hadn't? Don't wait until the end of the meal to tell people you're only accepting cash. And it stunk. No separation at all between the smoky bar and the dining area. All in all, what we have here is a place suffering from an identity crisis. It claims to be "pirate fusion"--and it probably could be with some work. For now, it's just a dive bar that was decorated after one trip to a rummage sale. The menu reads like something out of an upscale restaurant--elaborately prepared dishes using interesting blends of ingredients like mango, leeks, shitake mushrooms and exotic cheeses. Yet they don't have the resources (quality ingredients or knowledgeable staff) to pull these dishes off. Given the appearance of the place and the quality of the food, maybe they just need to commit to a format they can handle--a Bay View dive bar that serves burgers, onion rings and cheap beer. At least then, no one would go into the place with high expectations and walk out disappointed. I give this place until July.
 
tate0
Ahoy matey! I see lame.
 
Dean0
Ok. I'm definitely going to this place. It sounds like the most bizzare thing I can possibly imagine. Milwaukee, Pirates, and dishes with the word "surprise" in them? How do you pass this one up?
 
 
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2008-11-19 7 pm
Entertainment
Julie Waterman, owner and chocolate artisan, will be sharing her newest creations. Specializing in truffles and other fine chocolates, you´ll experience some of her signature creations as well as some new seasonal surprises, all of which will be paired with a complimentary wine. 7 PM $30 Reservations Appreciated.
Location: East Milwaukee
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